The spirited historian

Good morning, Red Stick!

It was nice to wake up in Baton Rouge, the capital of Louisiana, after being entertained by the South's sassiest comic, Judy Davis, in the lounge last night.

Our morning began with an excursion to Port Hudson State Historic Site.

Our guide was named David, and unlike someone who shares his moniker, but  as a surname,(comedian Larry) this David did not have to curb his enthusiasm..he was like a puppy vying for a Tony Award.

He's a professional historian who taught at Louisiana State University(LSU) but now he's a guide with pizzazz--he doesn't just talk, he choreographs his presentation with wild enthusiasm, even at a sacred place like the historic Magnolia Cemetery, our first stop, even 'though there's an actual headstone with his name etched on it..

We stood on grounds where the most intense fighting of the Battle of Baton Rouge took place.  He told us that confederate tombstones were pointed at the top to deter Yanks from sitting on them, while tombstones of Union soldiers were round.

Thanks to my friend Ellen who commented on a photo we posted earlier, who taught me a new word--necrotourists--who are people that enjoy visiting the final resting places of important people.

The cemetery was actually peaceful.  I enjoyed reading the names and dates of the deceased. I even liked looking at the crawfish holes that surrounded the graves, once David explained what they were.  

(Factually, not by belting out a show tunes)

We then took a short drive to Port Hudson, part of the Louisiana States Parks system, where the longest siege in US military history took place.

We learned about John Breckinridge, who was second in the electoral college, losing to Abraham Lincoln, who then became a confederate general, and John Pemberton, who surrendered  to US Grant in Vicksburg.

After a short film, we were handed out a recipe for "Roast Rat"..a favorite of the soldiers. 

 I'll make it when I get home, unless I change my mind and serve ratatouille.

We then were given a demonstration on the firing of cannonballs.  The participants were terrific and very serious about authenticity.

We were told to "prepare for a very loud noise" and I thought, "thanks for the head's up..I'll time it perfectly and release the gas I've been holding in all morning."

Local school children joined our group in what I'm guessing was a field trip, and a cutie in a pink baseball cap etched with the word "yall" couldn't stop holding her ears, even when her classmates advised her to.

She must have been in the stall next to mine earlier that morning.

The tour concluded with a display of artifacts and a cute little gift shop, where Jim bought a pencil sharpener shaped like a cannon so he could get change for tipping the driver and the Broadway Civil War star.

I wish the gift shop sold, among other things, a candle that smelled like the antebellum homes we've seen all week..like lavender and wood and vanilla and my grandmom's house.

You too, probably had a grandmom Sarah with a house that smelled like that.

So comforting.

So good.

So missed.

See you in New Orleans, our final stop before heading home on Monday.